Phuket is a bustling tourist island on the southern end of Thailand and also happens to be the gateway to the famous Similan Islands. A small archipelago comprised of nine islands, the Similans are famous for their beautiful scenery, manta rays, whale sharks and picturesque coral reefs.

Access to the islands is limited due to their location (approximately 84km off the coast), so we decided on a four day trip aboard MV Colona IV – a medium priced liveaboard dive vessel. The boat was smaller than expected and had a fair basic fit out.

After a long and rocky overnight steam we eventually made it to the Similan Islands. The first “checkout dive” looked promising with clear blue water and tropical fish, but was nothing more than pleasant. This dive would be characteristic of most of the other dives we did in and around the Similands – ie. nice but nothing special and not very fun for photographers.

Diving was done straight off the liveaboard, which meant the boat was always moving. The continual noise and vibration of the engine aboard the vessel became a significant irritation for me.

Despite the poor weather conditions, the boat left the relative shelter of the Similans after only 2 dives for another long steam to Richelieu Rock. This decision was apparently made because the water filter failed and fresh water needed to be retrieved. The net results was that the boat kept of steam to and from Richelieu in rough seas for the next few days.

Richelieu Rock proved to be a very impressive dive site, even with poor visiblity. The isolated pinnacle rises up from about 35-40m to the surface, and is home to a wide variety of marine life. On our trip, this included schooling barracuda, sea horses, ghost pipefish and an abundance of fish. Although strong currents sweep the site, it is relatively easy to find a sheltered position due to the large boulders that make up the bottom composition.

My impression of the region is that the marketing claims of manta rays and whale sharks are more the exception, rather than the rule. After speaking to guides and guests whom had done previous Similand trips, I reserved myself to the fact that the likelihood of seeing these beasts would be marginal at best. Similarly, sharks of any kind seemed a rarity in the region and I could only suspect that this was due to shark finning. Although we’d paid one of the most expensive marine park fees in the world (USD$20 per day), the Thai government apparently does nothing to protect the waters.

Unfortunately, MV Colona rates as one of the worse liveaboard boats that I’ve been on and made me feel overcrowded most of time. Food aboard the vessel was of poor quality, often served cold and less than inspirational. The absence of hot water in the showers was also a major disappointment! The dive deck is small, cluttered and cannot cater for the amount of divers on the boat.

After three days we found ourselves back in the Similans where the weather had eventually come good. With the sun out and the boat in a sheltered bay, the experience was much more pleasant. Here we swam alongside turtles whom were enticed in with bananas by the crew. The option to get off the liveaboard and return to Phuket seemed too good turn down, so we jumped on a speed boat and then minibus which took us to our hotel the quick way.

Due to a head cold and chest infection, I was unable to do any more diving out of Phuket. I had plans to dive with Pro-Tech Divers who are very rebreather friendly and more than helpful with oxygen, sorb and cylinders. In hindsight, day trip diving out of Phuket may have been a better option, though you cannot dive the Similans or Richelieu this way.

For me, the Similan Islands experience was not a particularly good one and not something that I will repeat. The diving at times was nice, though not world class. Richelieu Rock in contrast is a special place, though its remoteness is something that needs to be considered before planning a trip.