Comments for Damien Siviero Photography http://damiensiviero.com Adventures in diving, photography and life Thu, 05 Jan 2012 19:52:21 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comment on GoPro Hero2 – Top 10 Underwater Video Tips by GoPro Hero2 Digital Camera Underwater Testing in Bonaire: Pictures and Video « TravelingChicha http://damiensiviero.com/gopro-tips/#comment-842 GoPro Hero2 Digital Camera Underwater Testing in Bonaire: Pictures and Video « TravelingChicha Thu, 05 Jan 2012 19:52:21 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=516#comment-842 [...] 10 Tips for Use of GoPro Hero2 Underwater: http://damiensiviero.com/gopro-tips/ [...] [...] 10 Tips for Use of GoPro Hero2 Underwater: http://damiensiviero.com/gopro-tips/ [...]

]]> Comment on Vanuatu Hideaway Island – Photo Workshop 2012 by Kel http://damiensiviero.com/vanuatu-hideaway-island-photo-workshop-2012/#comment-664 Kel Thu, 24 Nov 2011 22:38:18 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=483#comment-664 We now have over 50 people going on the trip, it is going to be great. We now have over 50 people going on the trip, it is going to be great.

]]> Comment on Portfolio by Hideaway Photo Workshop 2012 | stgeorgeunderwater.com.au http://damiensiviero.com/portfolio/#comment-598 Hideaway Photo Workshop 2012 | stgeorgeunderwater.com.au Fri, 11 Nov 2011 12:08:19 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/#comment-598 [...] If you need inspiration, checkout Damien’s website at http://damiensiviero.com/portfolio [...] [...] If you need inspiration, checkout Damien’s website at http://damiensiviero.com/portfolio [...]

]]> Comment on Mill Pond Cave Video by damien http://damiensiviero.com/mill-pond-cave-video/#comment-589 damien Thu, 10 Nov 2011 04:06:57 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=505#comment-589 Thanks Fil. If anyone out there needs cave/ccr/tec training, I can definitely recommend Fil as the man to speak to. Thanks Fil.

If anyone out there needs cave/ccr/tec training, I can definitely recommend Fil as the man to speak to.

]]> Comment on Mill Pond Cave Video by Fil Gray http://damiensiviero.com/mill-pond-cave-video/#comment-588 Fil Gray Thu, 10 Nov 2011 04:03:35 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=505#comment-588 Nice work as usual Damo......... If you know of anyone interested I am running a trip there in May 2012. The trip will consist of both certified cave divers & students, and will comprise both open circuit & closed circuit rebreather divers. If anyone wants details, ask them to drop me an email, or give me a call on the mobile. Cheers Fil Gray Stingray Divers fil@stingraydivers.com.au +61 405 224 618 Advanced Diver Education at all levels • Instructor Training • Mixed Gas • Rebreather • Cave/Wreck • Nice work as usual Damo………

If you know of anyone interested I am running a trip there in May 2012.

The trip will consist of both certified cave divers & students, and will comprise both open circuit & closed circuit rebreather divers.

If anyone wants details, ask them to drop me an email, or give me a call on the mobile.

Cheers

Fil Gray
Stingray Divers

fil@stingraydivers.com.au
+61 405 224 618

Advanced Diver Education at all levels
• Instructor Training • Mixed Gas • Rebreather • Cave/Wreck •

]]> Comment on Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades by Dave Mitchell http://damiensiviero.com/big-bad-bright-cree-xm-l-led-upgrades/#comment-521 Dave Mitchell Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:19:48 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=426#comment-521 Thanks for the great site. I sourced the XM-L board and the RCD24 (1200mA) driver (flying lead) from Cutter. I had a fairly new Dive Rite Lux Lite, but the output was pitiful. So, I swapped in the above and the improvement is phenomenal. The actual surgery was a bit tricky. Initially I couldn't extract the heatsink, but running hot water over the outside of the light head (when inverted!!) helped free it up. Unfortunately, the XM-L board does not have a hole in the centre like the original Dive Rite board. To fix it to the heatsink, i drilled a small through the led board (and into the heatsink). There is some open space on the board where you can avoid the tracks feeding power to the LEDs. A very thin smear of Arctic Silver was placed on the rear of the board and a small self tapper used to secure it tightly to the heatsink. You do need to be careful not to damage or contaminate the LEDs when drilling/applying heatsink compound. You also want to avoid getting finger grease on the LEDs - latex gloves are a handy thing to wear. An alternative way of fixing the LED board to the heatsink would be to use adhesive thermal tape - available from Cutter (Thermattach). This gets away from the messy heatsink compound and the need to drill and then screw down the LED board, but has the disadvantage of making the board difficult to get back off the heatsink. Also, I think the self tapper/Arctic Silver option probably gives much lower thermal resistance to the heatsink, and this would translate to cooler LEDs and therefore better light output/longer life. The heatsink is held in place inside the light head with an o-ring. I lightly regressed this to make it easy to slide back into the light head. Initially, I tried omitting the o-ring (much easier to insert), but the heatsink was loose, went in too far and the lens assembly was then not held in place by the front glass, so I went back to the o-ring option. The lens I used was the Cute-3-SS-XM +/-9.5deg lens. This gives a much larger angle (19degs) compared with the very narrow Dive Rite optic (10degs). However, the extra light certainly compensates for the greater spread. Dive Rite say their light is something like 900 Lumens. But my comparisons with other known lights suggests it may be more like 500-600 . The upgraded LED is giving at least 1300Lumens (based on the specs for the T5 bin) - the info above suggests around 1800 lumens. It certainly mashes the other LED lights I have. All this cost around $80 AUD - money well spend. Thanks again. Thanks for the great site. I sourced the XM-L board and the RCD24 (1200mA) driver (flying lead) from Cutter. I had a fairly new Dive Rite Lux Lite, but the output was pitiful. So, I swapped in the above and the improvement is phenomenal. The actual surgery was a bit tricky. Initially I couldn’t extract the heatsink, but running hot water over the outside of the light head (when inverted!!) helped free it up. Unfortunately, the XM-L board does not have a hole in the centre like the original Dive Rite board. To fix it to the heatsink, i drilled a small through the led board (and into the heatsink). There is some open space on the board where you can avoid the tracks feeding power to the LEDs. A very thin smear of Arctic Silver was placed on the rear of the board and a small self tapper used to secure it tightly to the heatsink. You do need to be careful not to damage or contaminate the LEDs when drilling/applying heatsink compound. You also want to avoid getting finger grease on the LEDs – latex gloves are a handy thing to wear. An alternative way of fixing the LED board to the heatsink would be to use adhesive thermal tape – available from Cutter (Thermattach). This gets away from the messy heatsink compound and the need to drill and then screw down the LED board, but has the disadvantage of making the board difficult to get back off the heatsink. Also, I think the self tapper/Arctic Silver option probably gives much lower thermal resistance to the heatsink, and this would translate to cooler LEDs and therefore better light output/longer life. The heatsink is held in place inside the light head with an o-ring. I lightly regressed this to make it easy to slide back into the light head. Initially, I tried omitting the o-ring (much easier to insert), but the heatsink was loose, went in too far and the lens assembly was then not held in place by the front glass, so I went back to the o-ring option. The lens I used was the Cute-3-SS-XM +/-9.5deg lens. This gives a much larger angle (19degs) compared with the very narrow Dive Rite optic (10degs). However, the extra light certainly compensates for the greater spread. Dive Rite say their light is something like 900 Lumens. But my comparisons with other known lights suggests it may be more like 500-600 . The upgraded LED is giving at least 1300Lumens (based on the specs for the T5 bin) – the info above suggests around 1800 lumens. It certainly mashes the other LED lights I have. All this cost around $80 AUD – money well spend. Thanks again.

]]> Comment on Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades by Allen http://damiensiviero.com/big-bad-bright-cree-xm-l-led-upgrades/#comment-90 Allen Fri, 03 Jun 2011 05:53:23 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=426#comment-90 Does the driver and LED board both need heat sinks (2 total). I'm planning on converting an older Dive Rite Led 500 with 8 AA to the triple XM-L. The Led 500 currently only has the heat sink on the LED board. Does the driver and LED board both need heat sinks (2 total). I’m planning on converting an older Dive Rite Led 500 with 8 AA to the triple XM-L. The Led 500 currently only has the heat sink on the LED board.

]]> Comment on Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades by damien http://damiensiviero.com/big-bad-bright-cree-xm-l-led-upgrades/#comment-33 damien Wed, 20 Apr 2011 02:37:49 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=426#comment-33 Yes, get the flying lead version. The LED board will need some thermal grease between it and the board (e.g. arctic silver). This is pretty gluggy stuff and sticks the board down good enough since the housing will compress and hold it in place. Some suggest screwing/gluing the board to the heatsink though I haven't bothered with the MR11 ones. Yes, get the flying lead version.

The LED board will need some thermal grease between it and the board (e.g. arctic silver). This is pretty gluggy stuff and sticks the board down good enough since the housing will compress and hold it in place. Some suggest screwing/gluing the board to the heatsink though I haven’t bothered with the MR11 ones.

]]> Comment on Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades by Simon Roberts http://damiensiviero.com/big-bad-bright-cree-xm-l-led-upgrades/#comment-32 Simon Roberts Fri, 15 Apr 2011 04:41:55 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=426#comment-32 Regarding the driver: if I'm happy with the RCD24 simplicity, should I select the "1200ma with Flying leads" variant? Presumably a DIP package would require a chip-socket, and therefore a PCB etc? Does the heatsink stick more-or-less directly to the back of the light-board? If so, how does the driver dump it's heat, given that's a hot component too? Please excuse the dumb questions - I'm just learning about this stuff :) Regarding the driver: if I’m happy with the RCD24 simplicity, should I select the “1200ma with Flying leads” variant? Presumably a DIP package would require a chip-socket, and therefore a PCB etc?

Does the heatsink stick more-or-less directly to the back of the light-board? If so, how does the driver dump it’s heat, given that’s a hot component too?

Please excuse the dumb questions – I’m just learning about this stuff :)

]]> Comment on Big, Bad, Bright! Cree XM-L LED Upgrades by damien http://damiensiviero.com/big-bad-bright-cree-xm-l-led-upgrades/#comment-31 damien Fri, 15 Apr 2011 01:58:41 +0000 http://damiensiviero.com/?p=426#comment-31 See below. See below.

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